Brewtopia Events LLC
www.ClassicCityBrew.com


Useful Information on Conditioning and Serving
Real Ale (Cask Ale)


By Owen Ogletree - Updated October 2007.
Owen is the founder and organizer of the annual ATLANTA CASK ALE TASTING.
Special thanks go to Steve Hamburg for his help and guidance.



Cask ale (or real ale) is young beer that has been placed in small, metal, English casks called firkins.  In the sealed firkin the beer undergoes a special conditioning process whereby the yeast produces carbonation and wonderful flavor components and then settles to the bottom of the cask.  After a time, excess carbonation is vented and a serving tap is hammered into a spout on the cask.  The beer is served without pasteurization or additions of artificial carbon dioxide or other gasses.  This is soft, fresh, living beer the way it was meant to be served!




Brewtopia Events
City Beer Guides




Beer
Evaluations



Tips for bar and brewpub owners on how to condition and serve a good cask ale:

  • Clean and sanitize the cask thoroughly with caustic, and be sure to brush and clean both openings.  Seal the small opening at the end of the cask first.
  • Using the large center opening, add your beer to the cask at the end of primary fermentation with enough sugar and yeast to carbonate it lightly.  If the beer has little to no residual sugar, about 6.5 ounces of dextrose corn sugar will lightly carbonate a 10.8 US gallon firkin.  Fill the cask all the way and remember to use a fining of your choice (gelatin works well).  If a dry-hop bag is added to the cask, try to add a large, sanitized piece of stainless steel to the bag to make it sink to the bottom and not clog the top bung during later spiling/venting.  Seal the cask with the large plastic bung.
  • High-gravity beers can condition at 55-65 degrees F for weeks or months.  A 5% abv ale should be ready to soft spile in 7-10 days or less.
  • When you think the beer has conditioned and built up some carbonation, roll the cask for a few feet (to equally distribute the sediment), and set it up level and horizontally on its wooden platform (stillage) with the large, center bung up.  Keep the cask in horizontal stillage for a few days as close to 50-55 degrees F as you can.
  • 1-2 days before serving, hammer in a dry SOFT spile through the middle depression on the large, center bung of the cask.  Beer and gas should escape through the soft spile.  This is done to check the amount of carbonation and allow excess gas to be vented slowly (so not to dredge up sediment).  When the venting slows, wipe off the soft spile.  When it takes three seconds or longer for beer to flow back through the spile, this means the cask is probably ready for a hard spile.  With ALL spiles, leave the top one-third of the spile showing out of the bung so you will be able to grab the spile with pliers when it’s time to remove it.  There is no need to sanitize the spiles.
  • Remove the soft spile SLOWLY with a set of pliers.  If you feel pressure begin to push up the spile, be ready with your mallet and another soft spile.  Hop bags and yeast can sometimes clog the soft spile and make it look like the carbon dioxide is done venting.  Often you will have a stream of beer come out when the soft spile is removed.  If so, quickly hammer in another soft spile and keep watching the venting – you may have to use 2-3 soft spiles (or more) to get to the correct level of carbonation.  It always helps to have a towel ready.
  • When you remove the soft spile and only get a puff of gas (little to no beer venting from the cask), hammer in a hard spile (again, only two-thirds of the way in so you can pull it out later).  Some hard spiles will still vent a tiny amount over time – this is OK – if the hard spile gets really soaked in 1-2 days, pull out the hard spile and replace it with another.
  • Hammer in your sanitized serving tap (into the middle of the sealed, smaller bung at the end of the cask) a few hours before you are ready to start serving.  Be sure the tap is closed when you hammer it in.
  • If you must move the cask a short distance from the stillage area to the serving area, do so very gently, keep it level, and then give the cask a few hours to settle.
  • The cask should really be kept around 50-55 degrees F for the entire serving time.  Cask ale served at room temperature does NOT last long and is NOT usually very pleasant.
  • When you are ready to serve, pour some beer into a glass to test the internal pressure of the cask.  When the beer flows very slowly into the glass, remove the hard spile with pliers, place a damp towel over the top of the cask (to cover the empty spile hole and keep the cask cool), and start serving from the tap.  Never draw beer through the tap with a spile in the cask.

    
For used casks and all supplies, check out UK BREWING SUPPLIES, www.ukbrewing.com, phone 717-560-9447.
* UK Brewing offers a cooling “saddle” that is a system of metal tubes that sit on top of the cask and work from your glycol draft cooling line.  Gelatin ice blankets and insulated cask jackets are also very useful (and less expensive) cooling tools.  If kept at 50-55 degrees and hard spiled between serving days, a typical cask will taste good for maybe 2-3 days.

I hope all this is clear, and please feel free to E-MAIL me with any questions or suggestions.  I hope you will prepare and serve a cask ale soon -- your customers will love you!







© 2007 Brewtopia Events LLC
www.ClassicCityBrew.com
Classic City Brew Fest - Athens, GA | Atlanta Cask Ale Tasting | Beer Guides to Selected Cities | Evaluations of Commercial Beers
E-mail us with your questions or comments.Beer and Cheese Pairings | UK's Campaign for Real Ale
E-mail us to subscribe to our Electronic Brewsletter